Hand Stitching vs Machine Stitching: Why 0.55mm Waxed Thread Might Be the Sweet Spot

Not long ago I came across a post on Reddit’s r/Leathercraft. Someone had machine-stitched a wallet, only to watch the seams unravel within a few days. The first comment underneath was brutally short:

“This is why you should always saddle stitch by hand.”

That got me thinking—do we over-romanticize hand stitching? Or is the real difference not so much in the method, but in the thread we choose?

Hand vs Machine Stitching: Same Goal, Different Logic

• Hand Stitching (Saddle Stitch)
  Two needles, one thread, crossing through the same hole in opposite directions. Even if one section snaps, the rest of the seam usually holds up. That’s why saddle stitch has a reputation for being “unbreakable” over time (Leatherworker.net, 2019).

• Machine Stitching (Lockstitch)
  Two threads, top and bottom, interlocking neatly inside the leather. Faster, more uniform, perfect for production runs. The downside? If the thread breaks at one point, there’s a risk of unraveling (Popov Leather, 2020).

So in simple terms: hand stitching is like an insurance policy, machine stitching is an accelerator.

The Real Test: Threads That Don’t Slip or Snag

Here’s the thing: whether you hand stitch or machine stitch, most frustrations come down to two ugly problems—

1. Snagging – the thread drags through the holes and feels like you’re pulling rope through sandpaper.

2. Slipping – the thread is so slick that the stitches don’t lock in place, leaving the seam loose and messy.

That’s where polyester waxed thread—especially pre-waxed, burnable types—really shines. The wax gives just the right amount of grip, so the stitches stay locked without turning into a sticky mess.

One maker in a Facebook leathercraft group put it bluntly:

“Switching from linen to polyester waxed thread cut my mistakes in half. No more slipped stitches, no more re-doing seams.”

And honestly, I believe it. The science backs it too—polyester has higher tensile strength and better abrasion resistance compared to linen, especially in humid conditions (Ashland Leather, 2021).

Case Study: Stitching a Wallet with 0.55mm Waxed Polyester

Let’s make this concrete. Say you’re working on a long wallet. You grab a spool of 0.55mm waxed polyester thread—the kind Amy Roke produces—and test it in both scenarios:

• By Hand

  • The thread glides smoothly through pricking iron holes.

  • The pre-wax coating keeps tension consistent without slipping.

  • Burn-sealed ends finish clean, no fraying or fuzzy tips.

• By Machine

  • With the right tension settings, the thread doesn’t snap or jam.

  • Multiple leather layers? No problem—it holds up without skipped stitches.

  • The seam comes out neat, even, but still has that slightly “fuller” waxed look instead of looking flat and lifeless.

So the takeaway? A solid 0.55mm thread actually makes both methods better. It keeps hand stitching less painful and helps machines behave.

Choosing the Right Side of the Fence

If you’re still torn between hand vs machine, here’s a simple framework:

• Efficiency vs Longevity

  • One-off, bespoke work? Hand stitching adds value and character.

  • Batch production? Machine stitching is your friend.

• Thread Adaptability

  • Too slick → hand stitches slip.

  • Too stiff/thick → machines choke.

  • 0.55mm polyester waxed thread balances both worlds.

• What Story Do You Want Your Product to Tell?

  • Hand stitch = artisan feel, subtle irregularities, a “human signature.”

  • Machine stitch = clean, minimalist, professional, scaled.

Either way, the thread is the bridge that decides whether your method succeeds—or falls apart.

Final Thoughts

People often argue endlessly about whether hand stitching is “better” than machine stitching. Honestly, it’s a bit of a false debate. What matters far more is whether your thread allows either method to perform at its best.

That’s why many leatherworkers I respect choose 0.55mm waxed polyester thread. It’s strong enough to hold up under daily stress, waxed enough to lock stitches without slipping, and versatile enough to run through both saddle stitching and lockstitch machines without fuss.

In short: it’s less about picking a side, more about picking the right tool for the job—and the right thread makes both sides easier.

References

Ashland Leather (2021). Machine stitching vs hand stitching in leathercraft. [online] Ashland Leather. Available at: https://ashlandleather.com/blogs/inside-ashland/machine-stitching-vs-hand-stitching [Accessed 3 Oct. 2025].

Leatherworker.net (2019). Does hand stitching provide superior durability/longevity to machine stitching? [online] Leatherworker.net Forum. Available at: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/90148-does-hand-stitching-provide-superior-durabilitylongevity-to-machine-stitching/ [Accessed 3 Oct. 2025].

Popov Leather (2020). Sewing leather by hand vs sewing machine. [online] Popov Leather Blog. Available at: https://www.popovleather.com/blogs/from-the-workshop/sewing-leather-by-hand-vs-sewing-machine [Accessed 3 Oct. 2025].

Reddit (2023). Hand stitch vs machine stitch discussion. r/Leathercraft. Available at: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/ [Accessed 3 Oct. 2025].